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Bevacco in Brooklyn Heights

Modern Heights chef takes on traditional Italian fare

for The Brooklyn Paper

Transforming traditional dishes into haute cuisine can be a tightrope act.

Michelin-starred chef Antonio Morichini — formerly of Bottega de Vino in Manhattan and Acquolina and Glass Hosteria in Rome — is currently walking the line at Bevacco in Brooklyn Heights, finding a happy medium between highfalutin Italianate experiments (deconstructed lasagna with basil gelee and ricotta foam perhaps?) and tried-and-true war horses like chicken parmagiana.

“My food is a step ahead of conservative and a step behind innovation,” Morichini said. “It reflects the Italian tradition because it’s simple and fresh, but is open to new technology and techniques.”

At one-year-old eatery Bevacco, that might mean smoky, grilled octopus over warm potato salad and panzanella-stuffed cherry tomatoes, homemade gluten-free tomato gnocchi with asparagus flan, eggplant croquettes, and parmagiano fondue, or the house-special branzino skewers, threaded on fresh spears of asparagus and sided with vibrant, beet-infused mashed potatoes.

“We make everything in house, from foccacia to pasta to dessert, and our food is very light,” Morichini said. “I always say my job as a chef finishes the day after your dinner — if you feel great, you come back to my restaurant. If you have heartburn for two days after, you say forget it.”

One taste of Morichini’s branzino skewers and you’ll have to agree — Bevacco definitely warrants a return trip.

Bevacco [60 Henry St. between Orange and Cranberry Streets in Brooklyn Heights, (718) 624-1444].

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Reader Feedback

Kitty Litter from ParkSlope says:
Why does he look so dirty?

He looks like he needs to be introduced to soap and water.
June 6, 2012, 4:29 pm
Steve R. from Bklyn. Heights says:
The food here is good and we've especially liked the pastas. However, the wine list is lacking choices at a price point & quality commensurate with the food ($30-40), making the dining experience either too expensive or lacking the needed accompaniment. We would go a lot more if this was fixed.
June 10, 2012, 10:13 am
Old time Brooklyn from Slope says:
He has a scuzzy look
June 13, 2012, 11:25 pm

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