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Noodles in the sky

for The Brooklyn Paper

Lunch can be an exercise in carb-dodging and the healthy option, like a salad, pales in comparison to the satisfying option: a steaming bowl of noodles.

At SkyIce Sweet and Savory, the struggle ends.

The small but airy café in Park Slope has a “No-Carb Pad Thai” that’s all the satisfaction of a bowl of noodles with none of the guilt. Replacing traditional rice noodles with sautéed, shredded papaya, owner Sutheera Denprapa — who hails from Thailand — has created a dish that’s wonderfully original, surprisingly healthy, and hits all the right spots for the hungry, carb-conscious eater.

Thin, stringy, and mixed with plenty of sweet and tangy tamarind-laced, house-made pad thai sauce, the shredded papaya noodles pull off the role of noodle with no problem. Along with the traditional accompaniments of egg, peanuts, scallion, and turnips, the dish comes with a choice of vegetables, tofu, chicken, shrimp, beef, mahi magi, or Norwegian salmon. And in a borough where Thai food is increasingly easy to find and Pad Thai something of a staple, this version ranks high as much for its ingenuity as it for its flavor and freshness.

But there’s more.

During lunch, the noodles come with a free scoop of SkyIce’s homemade Thai ice cream. The smooth, rich, and creamy flavors — the Thai coffee is intense — are hard to pass up, after passing on the carbs.

So much for healthy.

SkyIce Sweet & Savory [63 Ffith Ave.at St. Marks Avenue, (718) 230–0910, www.skyicenyc.com].

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Reader Feedback

Patty from Cake says:
Shreded fruit is full Of sugar. Why would that be a healthy alternative to noodles? Neither dish you mention is healthy.
April 5, 2013, 7:41 am
Barq from Slope says:
Jeez this dish is NOT healthy
It had plenty of sugars (CARBS) and then you are advocating ice cream afterwards????

Please stop with the misinformation
April 6, 2013, 9:41 am
Aaron from Park Slope says:
This place rocks - my new favorite is their Green Curry Fried Rice with Mahi Mahi, I could seriously have this for dinner every night. The sorbet is to die for if ice cream is not your thing. the owners are incredibly welcoming and we are delighted to eat here all the time.
April 6, 2013, 9:21 pm
Robert Palazzo from http://miraclenoodle.com/ says:
Sounds good but I wonder if it tastes even better. I like the fact that it is carb-free though. Very healthy food.
April 12, 2013, 3:26 am
Really from WT says:
Robert you can't be serious ...carb free? You keep on thinking that while your waist line increases.
April 14, 2013, 11:13 pm

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