Arrivederci rice balls, yiasou spanakopita!
The Smith Street storefront that housed the legendary Italian takeout joint Joe’s Superette for five decades is now home to a quaint sit-down Greek eatery with a backyard garden.
Avlee Greek Kitchen won’t serve up any mouth-watering heroes or deep-fried prosciutto balls like its divey-but-beloved predecessor, however owners Andrew Poulos and Peter Rogakos say their new eatery will share at least two things in common with Joe’s: the original pressed tin ceiling and a dedication to tradition.
“It’s authentic Greek food,” said Poulos inside the remodeled 25-seat restaurant between Carroll Street and First Place. “There is no deviation.”
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Poulos and Rogakos, who both come from restaurateur parents, churn out classic Greek cuisine from the eatery’s open-kitchen such as moussaka ($12), a house-made tzatziki yogurt dip ($6), and lamb gyros ($8) prepared on a vertical spit rotisserie.
“They’re old recipes with a little bit of a touch to it,” said Rogakos, the brainchild behind the joint’s pan-fried fig roll appetizers, which are stuffed with feta cheese and herbs and wrapped in cured beef ($8). “It’s killer.”
If diners can’t get enough of the Greek flavor they can even purchase pastas, olive oils, herbs, jams, and honey — all imported from Greece — from the restaurant’s mini-grocery, a cleaned-up nod to the dusty canned foods that dotted the perpetually half-empty shelves in the former delicatessen.
Lifelong Carroll Gardens resident and longtime Joe’s Superette customer Angelo Vella said he hopes Avlee does well along Smith Street’s restaurant row.
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“It’s good for the neighborhood. I would try it,” he said. “But do I miss Joe’s Superette? Yeah, I miss it for the reason that it’s another part of this neighborhood that’s changed and it hurts to see an old staple like that go.”
Poulos said he’s glad Avlee — which translates to “garden” in Greek — resides in a location with such a legacy.
“I never even met the guy, but I feel like I knew him,” he said of the late Leo Coldanato, who took over the deli from Joe, the original owner, in 1985 and created the famed bite-sized prosciutto balls and rice balls. “I enjoy coming into a successful place because superstition says that once there’s prosperity it will live on.”
Avlee Greek Kitchen [349 Smith St. between First Place and Carroll St. in Carroll Gardens, (718) 855-5125, www.avleegreekkitchen.com].
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Reach reporter Natalie Musumeci at nmusumeci@cnglocal.com or by calling (718) 260-4505. Follow her at twitter.com/souleddout.