This story was born of the idea that those
of us chasing the artistic life shouldn’t have to eat peanut
butter sandwiches and Key Food macaroni every night, or sit at
home over a plate of cold bologna and crackers while our friends
live it up in the hundreds of great restaurants scattered across
the length and breadth of Brooklyn.
Struggling writers, painters, actors and musicians (not to mention
people who aren’t earning six figures) should be able to enjoy
good food and good company around town on a limited budget. At
first glance, it would seem that dining out is just out of reach
when one rules out fast food as a palatable culinary choice.
With all of these things in mind, we begin with a rather arbitrary
$8 maximum and the dream of a great meal for this much or less.
If it seems impossible, surprise! It can be done! Brooklyn abounds
with nightly specials, but many terrific restaurants have menu
choices that won’t break the bank on any night of the week. One
needn’t starve like Knut Hamsun (the mid-20th century Norwegian
writer remembered for his "Hunger," a novel about his
experiences as a starving writer in Oslo) for one’s art.
DUMBO has become synonymous with a burgeoning art scene over
the last few years, so the starving artist ought to begin there.
That old haunted warehouse district "down under" sports
some of the better chow-houses in town. Despite the gentrifying
atmosphere rapidly pervading the neighborhood, a night spent
dining in DUMBO needn’t be cost prohibitive.
A fine example of an affordable restaurant is Rice; suave, modern,
hip and budget-friendly could all describe this Asian-fusion
eatery. The place is a hungry poor-man’s dream. Virtually the
entire menu is accessible for $8 or less, including tip.
"Small" portions (more than adequate to serve as a
meal) of all the "Classics" are $4 to $7, and they
include a choice of rice (Japanese, brown, basmati or sticky).
My favorite is the vegetarian meatballs, breaded tofu rolled
into a bite-sized globe and available sweet or spicy. They’re
served, of course, with a choice of rice. (Appetizers and salads
can be had for less than $5.)
Now the starving artist moves away from DUMBO and toward the
green lawns of Prospect Park. If you happen to be feeling Von-Trapp-meets-film-noir
on a budget Monday night, cross the figurative and filthy Alps
of the Gowanus Canal aboard the elevated F train (taking a moment,
of course, to enjoy the view from the world’s highest subway
platform at Smith Street) to the Seventh Avenue stop.
Wander up to Cafe Steinhof at the juncture of Seventh Avenue
and 14th Street. Monday is $5 goulash night at this wood-paneled
and movie poster-bedecked ale house, where the starving artist
or budget eater can enjoy a heaping bowl of this hardy Hungarian
dish for a crisp Lincoln, with enough of the $8 leftover for
a good tip.
The cafe is homey and welcoming, knee-deep with ’Slope hipsters,
and the goulash – a meat-and-potato-based stew, spiced with a
touch of paprika – is delicious.
True to its decor, Cafe Steinhof features Sunday night movies,
showing a variety of films including local favorites like the
Pacino classic "Dog Day Afternoon" (shot nearby at
Prospect Park West and 17th Street).
For those on a slightly bigger budget, the menu provides a great
variety of Eastern and Central European dishes, and the bar has
a fine array of domestic and imported beers, available on tap
and in the bottle. On draught one finds European choices like
Stella Artois ($5) and Widmer Hefeweizen ($6) beside Williamsburg
brewed Brooklyn Brewery Brown ($5). Bottled choices include ubiquitous
bar fare like Corona ($5) alongside Austria’s Gosser and Germany’s
Paulaner ($6 each).
Far down Court Street in Carroll Gardens, the starving artist
can find the wood-paneled glory of Frankie’s 457 Court Street
Spuntino. The wildly long name might be a deterrent, but most
people just call it "Frankie’s" anyway. Here you can
find a number of sandwiches that just strike the $8 mark, served
up on bread from Sullivan Street Bakery to boot. (The "prosciutto
& pecorino" is a favorite of this writer.)
Full entrees are a bit out of the poor man’s price range, but
if you stop by flush with cash, the pricier options shout spectacular.
Adding to the local feel, Frankie’s is located in a former blacksmith’s
shop and stable. The outdoor patio is great in warm weather too,
and provides a good view of the elevated tracks and the rooftops
of Park Slope in the distance. ("Spuntino," by the
way, is Italian parlance for a snack or a casual restaurant.)
These three restaurants are just a tiny sampling of what’s our
there, so dump the fast food, and hit the sidewalks on a hunt
of your own. Happy budget dining!
Rice is located at 81 Washington St.
between Front and York streets in DUMBO. Accepts cash only. For
more information, call (718) 222-9880 or visit the Web site www.riceny.com.
Cafe Steinhof is located at 422 Seventh Ave. at 14th Street in
Park Slope. For more information, call (718) 369-7776.
Frankie’s 457 Court Street Spuntino is located at 457 Court St.
between Fourth Place and Luquer Street in Carroll Gardens. Accepts
cash only. For more information, call (718) 403-0033 or visit
the Web site, www.frankies457.com.
